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What is the one thing I can do to have healthy hair?

  • Writer: Emanuele Bortolotto
    Emanuele Bortolotto
  • Sep 12
  • 5 min read

If you ask five people how to get healthy hair, you’ll get twelve answers. Coconut oil, rice water, biotin pills, moonlight rituals, chanting Nightwish lyrics under a full moon—everyone has a hack. I used to believe them all. Once, back in Torino, my cousin told me she used to rub few drops of olive oil into my scalp because some friend swore “It’s what Sophia Loren does.” The result? Her head smelled like bruschetta.

After years of experimenting (and wasting money on bottles shinier than Goku turning super Sayan on Namek), I discovered something simple, almost boring, but powerful: the one thing you can do for healthy hair is take care of your scalp.


Not trims, not magic serums, not unicorn tears—your scalp. Because that’s where hair begins. Strong roots = strong growth. Neglect the scalp, and no product on your ends will save you.


The science of the scalp 🔬

The scalp is skin. Specifically, skin with a dense concentration of hair follicles and sebaceous glands. These follicles are living mini-organs producing hair fibres at about one centimetre per month. Each follicle relies on:

  • Adequate blood flow → nutrients and oxygen delivered to the matrix cells that build hair.

  • Balanced sebum → natural oil that protects both scalp and emerging shaft.

  • Clean environment → buildup, microbes, or inflammation disrupt growth.


Here’s the kicker: once hair leaves the follicle, it’s dead keratin. You can coat it, polish it, or iron it flat like Alex Staropoli's belly (I mean look at him)—but you can’t heal it. The only living part is in the scalp.

This is why scalp care is the keystone. If the foundation is shaky, the castle (your hair) collapses faster than my self esteem after a little kid once told me she didn't like my pizza. Rude.


Proper cleansing: the non-negotiable 🚿

Most people think shampoo is about making hair smell nice. Wrong. It’s about scalp hygiene. Sebum, sweat, dirt, pollution, and product buildup accumulate around follicles. Left alone, they clog, suffocate, and inflame.


The correct method, as trichologists and dermatologists repeat until their throats dry out:

  1. Apply shampoo to the scalp, not the ends. Your hair shaft doesn’t produce oil. Your scalp does.

  2. Spread shampoo on your palms first. Don’t glob it straight on like ketchup.

  3. Target the crown first. That’s where oil builds most. Work outward.

  4. Use fingertips, not nails. Massage in firm, back-and-forth motions. Stimulates blood flow while lifting grime.

  5. Two washes. First removes oil. Second actually cleans.

  6. Rinse thoroughly. Residue is the enemy. If you feel “slick,” you’ve failed.


Do this right, and your follicles stay clear, oxygenated, and productive. Do it wrong, and you invite dandruff, irritation, and lifeless strands.


The role of sebum 🛢️

Sebum is misunderstood. People treat it as a greasy nuisance. In reality, it’s your natural conditioner. Produced by sebaceous glands, it:

  • Coats the hair shaft to reduce water loss.

  • Protects against microbes.

  • Adds shine and flexibility.

Too much = oily scalp, limp hair. Too little = dryness, flaking, brittleness. Balance is everything. Over-washing strips it away; under-washing lets it suffocate follicles.

Sebum is like espresso. A little invigorates you. Too much leaves you jittery, sweaty, and regretting your life choices.


Washing frequency: what science says 📆

Trichology recommends washing not by superstition but by hair type and sebum load:

  • Fine hair → every 3 days. Collapses fast under oil.

  • Medium hair → every 5 days. Balanced resilience.

  • Coarse hair → every 7 days. Holds shape, resists oil.

Environment tweaks this. In Torino summers, humidity had me washing every 2 days or risk looking like Sanji fried calamari on my head. In Finnish winters, once every 5 days feels like indulgence because the air is drier than my humour.


Myths that need to die 💀

  • “Frequent trims make hair grow faster.” False. Growth happens at the follicle, not the tip. Trimming only prevents split ends from travelling upward. (See my post on how often to trim hair for the rant).

  • “Shampoo ruins hair.” Only if you use the wrong type. Professional-grade shampoos clean without fake foam or harsh stripping.

  • “Cold water seals cuticles.” Cuticles don’t have hinges. Temperature doesn’t “lock” them.

  • “You can train your scalp to produce less oil.” No. Sebum is hormone-regulated, not behaviour-trained. Stop washing, and you’ll just smell like an orc camp.


Blood flow and scalp massage ❤️‍🔥

Here’s a detail most overlook: follicles need blood supply to function. Studies show that scalp massage can increase local circulation, potentially boosting hair thickness.


  • Use fingertips, firm pressure, circular or back-and-forth.

  • 5 minutes daily.

  • Combine with cleansing for maximum effect.

Think of it as XP grinding. Boring, repetitive, but the only way to hit max level smithing.


Why the scalp matters more than cheap products 🧴❌

Every product for “healthy hair” targets the shaft: serums, oils, sprays, conditioners. They make dead keratin look better. But they don’t affect follicle biology.

Want lasting improvement? Feed and protect the follicle environment. That means:

  • Balanced cleansing.

  • Adequate blood flow.

  • Avoiding chronic inflammation (dandruff, psoriasis, folliculitis untreated).

Everything else is cosmetics.


Extra layers of scalp care 🎭

Scalp care isn’t just shampoo. Other habits matter too:

  • UV protection. Yes, your scalp can sunburn. That red, flaky line along your part in summer? UV damage. Hats or SPF sprays help.

  • Avoiding tight styles. Ponytails yanked tighter than my budget in December.

  • Stress management. Cortisol messes with follicle cycles. Meditation helps (yes, even if you feel that it is stuåid. Take care of yourself).

  • Nutrition. Protein, iron, zinc, omega-3s, vitamins. Follicles are metabolic overachievers—they need fuel.


Questions from the Internet 🤔


What’s the fastest way to make hair healthier?

Focus on scalp hygiene. Proper shampooing, exfoliation if necessary, and consistent hydration. Quick fixes on ends are temporary.


Should I oil my scalp?

Generally no. Sebum is natural oil. Adding more clogs follicles unless you have extremely dry scalp or specific conditions. Oils belong on mid-lengths and ends, not roots.


Does diet matter for scalp health?

Yes. Follicles need protein, iron, zinc, and vitamins. Poor diet = weak growth. Espresso doesn’t count as a food group (unfortunately).


Can massaging shampoo help hair growth?

Indirectly. It doesn’t alter genetics, but it improves circulation, which supports follicle function.


What if I have dandruff?

Use shampoos with antifungal agents (zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole). Trimming ends won’t help; scalp-targeted care will.


Can scalp exfoliation help?

Yes, occasionally. Gentle scrubs or chemical exfoliants (salicylic acid) can reduce flakes and buildup. But don’t overdo.


Does scalp health affect hair colour?

Indirectly. Healthy follicles = better keratin production, which supports pigment. But genetics still call the shots for greying.


Is conditioner bad for the scalp?

Yes, if left on roots. Conditioners are designed for shaft lubrication, not follicle health. On scalp, they clog.


Alternatives and caveats 🎭

  • Dry shampoo: Useful for extending wash days, but not a substitute. Must be washed out eventually.

  • Exfoliating scrubs: Occasionally helpful for flaky scalps, but don’t overdo.

  • Medical conditions: If hair sheds excessively, see a dermatologist. Scalp care helps, but it doesn’t cure thyroid issues or autoimmune conditions.


Conclusion 🎇

So, what is the one thing you can do to have healthy hair?

Take care of your scalp.

Not trims, not oils, not magic serums. The follicle is the only living part of your hair system. Keep it clean, balanced, and supported, and your hair will grow stronger, shinier, and healthier—no matter what you do to the dead lengths afterward.

The rest—serums, masks, oils—are supporting characters. The scalp is the protagonist. And like every anime hero, it demands consistency, discipline, and a little bit of espresso-fuelled determination ☕️⚔️.

If this clicked with you, check out my article on the science of how shampoo actually works, because that’s where scalp care truly begins.

Sources

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