The Only Routine Guide for Fine, Normal, and Coarse Hair you will ever need.
- Emanuele Bortolotto
- Oct 7
- 9 min read
If you are new on the Manuverse, let me welcome you to the confusing battlefield known as hair care. It’s a place where every influencer thinks they are a prophet, every bottle promises salvation, and everyone secretly hopes their shower routine will make them look like Legolas. Spoiler: it won’t. But it can make your hair healthy, shiny, and obedient, if you stop guessing your type and start treating it like a living science experiment that follows laws of biology, not astrology.
People love to complicate hair routines with mythical steps and coconut potions, but the truth is simpler and less romantic. There are only three kinds of hair that matter for your daily strategy: fine, medium, and coarse. Everything else (curly, straight, wavy, dyed, blonde, red, anime-pink, whatever) is just a personality trait layered on top. Once you understand which kingdom you belong to, you can build a routine that actually works instead of spending half your salary chasing miracle serums that promise “angel-approved silkiness.”
I’ve read about years of trial, error, and salon disasters (read this on an empty stomach ) Now I’m giving you the field manual. It’s not sexy. It’s not filled with marketing nonsense. But it’s the only realistic, science-backed way to manage your scalp, your wash schedule, and your products list you will ever need.
The Hair Type Trinity: Know Thy Enemy
Let’s strip away the drama. Fine, medium, and coarse hair aren’t just visual descriptions, they behave differently at a cellular level. Imagine three armies.
Fine hair has the thinnest soldiers: fragile strands with a tiny diameter, producing oil faster than an Italian kitchen during lunch rush. The scalp’s sebaceous glands work overtime, drowning those delicate fibers in sebum before you can say “That's what she said. ”
Medium hair is the balanced diplomat—enough density to hold a style, enough oil to stay shiny without collapsing. It’s the middle child of biology: never too needy, never too rebellious.
Coarse hair is the tank. It’s thick, dense, and heavy. The cuticle layers are wide and numerous, which means moisture has to work like a siege army to penetrate. It rarely looks oily but easily becomes dry, frizzy, or rough.
The secret is not to fight your nature but to optimize it. As Michael Scott once said in The Office, “Would I rather be feared or loved? Easy—both. I want people to be afraid of how much they love me.” That’s how you should treat your hair: with fear and love, discipline and indulgence.
The Science Behind the Shine
Healthy hair is chemistry, not luck. Each strand is about 95% keratin—fibrous proteins bound by disulfide links that give it structure. The outer layer, the cuticle, is made of overlapping scales. When these lie flat, light reflects smoothly, giving that “healthy shine.” When lifted or broken, hair scatters light and looks dull.
The difference between “moisturized” and “oily” is crucial. Oil sits on top; moisture lives inside. Hair gets moisture from water and humectants, then holds it thanks to conditioners and sealants. If you load fine hair with too many heavy products, it suffocates. If you starve coarse hair of them, it becomes brittle like an overcooked spaghetti.
The scalp, meanwhile, is living skin with glands that produce sebum. Sebum lubricates the strand as it grows out, but too much leads to greasy roots and clogged follicles. Too little, and your scalp becomes a desert of flakes. The goal is equilibrium—a moisture cycle where every wash resets the balance without stripping or suffocating.
Think of your wash routine as an ecosystem. Every product you use either nourishes it or burns it down.
The Routine for Fine Hair: Volume Without Chaos
Profile: thin strands, prone to oil, collapses under heavy formulas.
Fine hair’s main tragedy is that it gets greasy faster than you can style it. By the time you’ve finished breakfast, the roots already look like you conditioned them with pizza oil. The reason is physics. Fine strands have smaller diameters and less surface area, so oil saturates them quickly.
Washing Schedule
Aim to wash every four days. It sounds long, but overwashing is the enemy. Each time you shampoo, your scalp panics and produces even more oil to compensate. That vicious cycle keeps fine hair forever flat.
Step 1: The Right Shampoo
You need a cleanser that removes sebum without punishing the cuticle. My favorite recommendation: Redken Volume Injection Shampoo. It’s a professional formula designed to lift roots while keeping the scalp fresh. Avoid “repair,” “hydrating,” or “moisture” shampoos—they are coded traps full of heavy emollients. You want volume, not hydration bombs.
Step 2: Light Conditioning
Fine hair still needs conditioner, just not the thick, buttery kind. Redken Volume Injection Conditioner strikes the right balance—it hydrates without glueing the strands together. Apply from mid-lengths down; never on roots. Two minutes, then rinse like your life depends on it.
Step 3: The Leave-In Shield
After washing, towel-dry with a microfiber towel (not your bath towel of doom). Spray Pureology Color Fanatic Leave-In Conditioner. It creates a lightweight barrier that keeps moisture locked in and heat damage out. This is your hair’s invisible armor.
Step 4: Blow-Dry Discipline
Fine hair loves a blow-dry because the heat seals the cuticle and gives lift. But use a blow-dry cream only if it says “lightweight” or “volumizing.” Section your hair, direct airflow upward, and imagine you’re sculpting a croissant—structure, not chaos.
Step 5: Oil with Restraint
A drop—literally one drop—of Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil rubbed between your palms and pressed onto the ends. That’s it. Too much and you’ll look like a freshly laminated brioche.
Hair mask:
Use Moroccanoil Weightless Hydrating Mask . Leave for 5–10 minutes, rinse thoroughly. It restores elasticity without crushing volume.
Mental Notes
Fine hair isn’t weak; it’s just small-scaled. Treat it like a violin string—tight, delicate, capable of great beauty but easily ruined by excess.
The Routine for Medium (Normal) Hair: Balance Is Power
Profile: holds volume well, gets oily around day three or four, flexible but still vulnerable to buildup.
Medium hair is the diplomatic core of humanity. It forgives your mistakes but keeps score. It’s the hair type that makes you think your products are fine—until suddenly they aren’t. The trick is to keep it light enough to stay bouncy but rich enough to stay soft.
Washing Schedule
Every five to six days is ideal. That allows your scalp to regulate sebum naturally while giving products time to protect your mids and ends.
Step 1: The Cleansing Foundation
Stick with your Redken Volume Injection Shampoo. Even though it’s marketed for fine hair, medium hair benefits from its clean base. It removes dirt without coating.
Step 2: The Balancing Conditioner
Same family, Redken Volume Injection Conditioner. The chemistry between them is optimized for root lift and hydration control. Think of them as a good couple: supportive, balanced, not suffocating each other.
Step 3: The Leave-In Law
Never skip your Pureology Color Fanatic Leave-In Conditioner. Medium hair needs it more than fine hair because its density makes even product distribution harder. Use 10–12 sprays, focusing on mids and ends. It evens out porosity and protects from heat, UV, and bad decisions.
Step 4: Controlled Shine
Oil sparingly. Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil is perfect—highly concentrated, silicone-blended, and reparative. Start with two drops, warm them in your hands, then apply from the bottom upward. Avoid roots unless you want that “I just ran a marathon” gleam.
Step 5: The Occasional Indulgence
When needed (more information in a bit) reward your hair with the Moroccanoil Weightless Hydrating Mask . It infuses lightweight hydration while smoothing the cuticle. If you leave it longer than 15 minutes, you’re not helping; you’re just marinating keratin.
Style Science
Medium hair tolerates moderate heat but not recklessness. Use a heat protectant spray before blow-drying or curling. Keep irons below 180°C (356°F). Anything hotter is war crime territory.
As Eleanor Shellstrop said in The Good Place, “Pobody’s nerfect.” Neither is your hair. The goal isn’t to be flawless—it’s to be consistent.
The Routine for Coarse Hair: Hydrate Like a Warrior
Profile: thick strands, dry by default, immune to oil, prone to frizz and rebellion.
Coarse hair is misunderstood. People think it’s strong because it feels thick, but it’s actually fragile inside. It’s like armor that rusts without maintenance. The wide cuticle layers make it hard for moisture to stay in, so every bit of hydration must be locked and sealed.
Washing Schedule
You can go seven days or more without washing. Coarse hair thrives on natural oils. The longer intervals allow sebum to travel down and condition the mids.
Step 1: Deep Cleansing with Respect
Use Moroccanoil Moisture Repair Shampoo. It’s sulfate-free and fortified with argan oil and keratin. It cleans without stripping, which is essential because coarse hair already suffers from dehydration. Follow with Moroccanoil Moisture Repair Conditioner. The combo is like espresso for your strands—intense, aromatic, life-restoring.
Step 2: The Holy Trinity of Moisture
After washing, apply Pureology Color Fanatic Leave-In Conditioner. Then seal with Moroccanoil Treatment—the classic amber bottle that smells like the gates of heaven after a desert storm. This oil is heavier, perfect for coarse hair that drinks hydration like a sailor in port.
Step 3: The Mask Ritual
Use Moroccanoil Weightless Hydrating Mask Yes, even coarse hair needs the “weightless” version because it penetrates deeper without residue. Apply generously, comb through with fingers, leave for ten minutes. Your hair will feel like a Rhapsody of Fire chorus: powerful, smooth, unstoppable.
Step 4: Blow-Dry Gracefully
Coarse hair loves heat when used wisely. Apply a blow-dry cream first to tame frizz, then dry in sections. Use tension with your brush—think of it as training a dragon. It will obey, but only if you assert dominance.
Step 5: Oil Maintenance
Two or three drops of Moroccanoil Treatment rubbed through mids and ends every morning keep the cuticle sealed. Coarse hair isn’t afraid of weight; it needs it.
The Universal Rules of the Moisture Cycle
No matter your hair type, these laws apply to all mortals:
1. Shampoo Twice, Always.The first wash removes oil and product residue; the second actually cleans. Skipping it is like rinsing a pizza stone once and calling it sanitized.
2. Conditioner Goes on Mids and Ends Only.Your roots produce their own oil. Don’t drown them in someone else’s.
3. Leave-In is Mandatory. It’s the bridge between moisture and protection. Without it, you’re letting the elements assault your cuticle raw.
4. Oil = Sealant, Not Moisturizer.Oil locks moisture in—it doesn’t create it. That’s why order matters: hydrate first, oil last, every day.
5. Air Drying is Not Holy.The internet lied. Air drying leaves hair porous and rough. A gentle blow-dry with protection is safer and shinier.
6. Clarify Monthly.Product buildup sneaks in like an uninvited Skyrim courier. Once a month, use a clarifying shampoo, then follow with a mask. Reset your system.
7. Hair Mask Timing. If your hair is damaged—bleached, fried, or still recovering from that phase where you thought air drying was “natural”—apply it once a week. Let it sit for ten minutes, comb through, and rinse until your soul feels lighter.
If your hair is healthy, don’t overdo it. Once a month is enough to keep it supple and hydrated without oversaturating the cortex. Even hydration has a limit. Too much, and you end up with “mushy hair,” that strange texture halfway between seaweed and regret.
Think of the mask as a gym session for your strands: consistent training builds strength, but daily overtraining leaves you sore, tired, and full of excuses.
The Psychology of Hair: Discipline and Identity
Good hair is not about vanity; it’s about control. It’s the small daily ritual that says, I may not understand the world, but at least my cuticles lie flat. When you treat your hair with consistency, you send a message to your nervous system: we are safe, hydrated, and thriving.
In Torino, I once overheard a stylist say, “Il capello è come l’amore—troppo poco e muore, troppo e soffoca.” Hair, like love, dies from neglect or suffocation. The trick is balance. Fine hair wants freedom; coarse hair wants indulgence; medium hair wants peace treaties.
If you follow your type’s plan, something quiet happens. The frizz disappears. The oil calms. The mirror becomes less of an enemy. You start noticing texture, shine, the subtle swing when you move. It’s not magic—it’s chemistry meeting patience.
As Andy Bernard said in The Office, “I wish there was a way to know you’re in the good old days before you’ve actually left them.” That’s your hair right now. Treat it well before nostalgia hits and you realize those “average hair days” were glorious.
Final Words
The only routine that works is the one rooted in science, not superstition. Fine, medium, and coarse hair are three dialects of the same language—each needs its own grammar. If you learn to speak it fluently, your hair will respond with loyalty.
Forget ten-step influencer sermons. All you need are good cleansers, a conditioner that matches your density, a leave-in shield, a reliable oil, and the patience to repeat it until it becomes muscle memory.
Healthy hair isn’t about having time; it’s about having priorities. The mirror doesn’t lie—it just reports the data you feed it.
So wash with intelligence, moisturize with purpose, seal with precision, and style with grace.
Sourceshttps://www.trichology.org.ukhttps://www.aad.org/public/diseases/hair-loss/insider/hair-growthhttps://www.healthline.com/health/hair-typeshttps://www.dermnetnz.org/topics/hair-care
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