The Magic of Emulsions: How is Vegan Mayo Even Possible?
- Emanuele Bortolotto
- Jul 27
- 8 min read
Updated: Sep 6
It's a bright Monday morning here in Helsinki, a time for brunch and other pleasant weekend rituals. And what is brunch, I ask you, without a creamy, tangy, slightly decadent sauce? This line of thinking led me to ponder one of the culinary world's most humble but most miraculous creations: mayonnaise.
Think about it for a moment. Mayonnaise should not exist. It is a physical impossibility. It is a stable, creamy sauce made from two ingredients—oil and vinegar—that fundamentally, violently hate each other. Try to mix them, and they will immediately separate, retreating to their own corners like a feuding couple at a dinner party. Yet, mayonnaise is a thick, harmonious union. The secret, of course, is the egg yolk.
But this raises an even more profound and baffling question. If the egg yolk is the magical peacekeeper, the hostage negotiator between the warring factions of fat and water, then how in the world is vegan mayo possible? How can you create this impossible sauce without the key ingredient? As an investigator, I could not let this scientific paradox rest. I decided to find out exactly how vegan mayo is made. 🕵️♂️
A Brief, Oily History of Mayonnaise and the Magic of Emulsions
Before I could understand the vegan version, I first had to understand the original. The history of mayonnaise is a surprisingly contentious topic, with both the French and the Spanish claiming to have invented it. What is not debated, however, is the science. Mayonnaise is what is known as an emulsion.
An emulsion is what happens when you take two "immiscible" liquids (liquids that don't mix) and force them to get along. It’s a peace treaty between two substances that would rather be in different rooms. To make this peace treaty stick, you need a third party, a special agent called an emulsifier.
I like to think of it this way:
Oil is a crowd of very cool, very aloof people who only want to hang out with each other. They are hydrophobic (water-fearing).
Vinegar (or any water-based liquid) is a different crowd of people, who also only want to hang out with each other. They are hydrophilic (water-loving).
An emulsifier is the one super-charismatic person at the party who is friends with both crowds. This molecule is special. It has a hydrophobic tail that loves to hang out with the oil crowd, and a hydrophilic head that loves to hang out with the water crowd.
When you blend oil and vinegar together, the emulsifier gets in the middle. It uses its tail to grab onto a tiny droplet of oil, and its head to hang out in the water, effectively creating a bridge between the two worlds. It surrounds every tiny oil droplet, preventing them from clumping back together. The result is a stable, creamy, harmonious party where everyone is forced to mingle. 🎉 In traditional mayonnaise, the undisputed champion emulsifier is lecithin, a phospholipid found in abundance in egg yolks.
Here in the manuverse we really care about all kinds of weird stuff.
The Contenders: A Field Guide to Vegan Emulsifiers
So, the central challenge of making vegan mayo is to find a plant-based ingredient that can play the role of the charismatic, peace-making egg yolk. My investigation revealed several brilliant contenders, each with its own unique strengths.
Soy Milk: The Reliable Champion 🏆
This is the most common, most reliable, and, in my opinion, the most magical method for making vegan mayo.
The Science: Soybeans are unique among legumes in that they contain a significant amount of lecithin, the very same emulsifier found in egg yolks. The combination of this lecithin and the high protein content in soy milk makes it an absolute powerhouse of an emulsifier.
The Method: The process is breathtakingly simple, provided you use an immersion blender (also known as a stick blender). You simply combine a small amount of unsweetened soy milk, a squeeze of lemon juice or vinegar, a pinch of salt, and some mustard powder in a narrow cup. You then place the head of the immersion blender at the very bottom of the cup, turn it on, and slowly begin to pour in a neutral oil in a thin stream. As the blades whip the oil into the soy milk, the lecithin and protein immediately get to work, creating a thick, creamy, and shockingly stable emulsion in less than a minute. It is pure, edible science.
Aquafaba: The Magical Upstart ✨
As I’ve investigated before, aquafaba (the liquid from a can of chickpeas) is a culinary miracle. Its unique combination of proteins and soap-like compounds called saponins makes it an excellent foaming agent, and, it turns out, a very effective emulsifier.
The Science: The proteins in the bean water (albumins and globulins) act in a similar way to the proteins in soy milk, helping to surround the oil droplets. The saponins provide additional stabilizing power.
The Method: The process is almost identical to the soy milk method. You combine the aquafaba, acid, and seasonings in a cup, and then slowly stream in the oil while blending with an immersion blender. The result is a slightly lighter, fluffier mayonnaise than the soy milk version, with a very clean, neutral flavor. It’s an incredible way to use a product you would otherwise pour down the drain.
Cashews & Tofu: The Creamy Cousins
These methods are slightly different, as they create a thick, creamy sauce that is more of an "aioli" or a creamy spread than a traditional, jiggly mayonnaise.
The Science: Soaked and blended raw cashews create a very thick, creamy base due to their high fat and starch content. The fats and proteins in the cashews themselves help to emulsify the added oil. Silken tofu, on the other hand, provides a high-protein, low-fat base that can be blended with oil to create a rich, creamy texture.
The Method: For these, you typically blend the main ingredient (soaked cashews or silken tofu) with the acid, seasonings, and a little water first to create a smooth paste. Then, you slowly stream in the oil with the blender running until it’s thick and creamy. These don't rely on the "magic" of a sudden emulsion as much as the soy and aquafaba methods, but they produce a delicious, rich result.
Troubleshooting: A Forensic Analysis of Failed Vegan Mayo 🕵️♀️
My investigation wouldn't be complete without looking at the failures. A vegan mayo can go horribly wrong, leaving you with a sad, oily, separated mess. I decided to conduct a forensic analysis of the most common reasons for this culinary crime.
Suspect #1: The Oil Was Added Too Fast. This is the number one cause of a "broken" mayo. Emulsification is a delicate process. You have to introduce the oil in a very slow, thin, steady stream at the beginning. This allows the emulsifier molecules to properly grab onto each tiny oil droplet and surround it. If you dump the oil in all at once, you overwhelm the emulsifier. The oil droplets will all find each other and clump together, and the emulsion will never form.
Suspect #2: The Wrong Tools for the Job. The immersion blender is the undisputed champion for making vegan mayo at home. Its high speed and the confined space of the cup create the perfect vortex of shear force needed to break the oil into tiny droplets and create a stable emulsion quickly. While you can make it in a traditional blender or a food processor, it is much, much trickier, and the chances of it failing are significantly higher.
Suspect #3: The Wrong Plant Milk. If you are using the soy milk method, the type of milk matters. You need a full-fat, high-protein, unsweetened soy milk. A watery, low-protein, or low-fat plant milk (like many thin almond milks) simply does not have enough protein and lecithin to do the job.
Suspect #4: The Temperature Anomaly. For the most stable emulsion, it’s best if all your ingredients are at the same temperature, ideally room temperature. If your oil is warm and your soy milk is ice-cold, it can sometimes be harder to get them to play nicely.
Questions from the Internet: "Okay, but is vegan mayo actually healthier than the real thing?"
This is a great question, and my conclusion is that it is "healthier-ish."
The Pro: Vegan mayo has zero dietary cholesterol, which is a major health benefit. Traditional mayonnaise is very high in cholesterol because of the egg yolks.
The Con: It is still, at its heart, a sauce made almost entirely of oil. It is a very high-fat, high-calorie food. A single tablespoon can have around 100 calories.
The verdict is that while it’s a better choice from a cholesterol perspective, it is not a "health food." It’s a delicious, creamy condiment that should be enjoyed in moderation. The overall healthiness also depends on the quality of the oil you use.
Questions from the Internet: "What is the absolute best, foolproof way to make it?"
After my extensive investigation and several messy experiments, I can confidently crown one method as the most reliable and consistent for a classic, traditional mayonnaise texture: the unsweetened soy milk and immersion blender method. The high concentration of natural lecithin in the soy milk makes it an incredibly powerful and forgiving emulsifier. It creates a thick, creamy, and remarkably stable mayonnaise in under 60 seconds. It is pure food science magic. 🪄
Questions from the Internet: "My vegan mayo tastes bland. How do I fix it?"
A basic mayo is just a canvas; the flavor comes from the seasonings. If your mayo is bland, it needs more personality. My research suggests a few key flavor boosters:
A good quality Dijon mustard: Adds a tangy, complex flavor and also helps with emulsification.
Kala Namak (Black Salt): This Himalayan salt has a high sulfur content, which gives it a distinctly "eggy" flavor. A tiny pinch can make your vegan mayo taste uncannily like the real thing.
Garlic and Onion Powder: For a savory, all-purpose aioli flavor.
Herbs and Spices: Fresh dill, chives, smoked paprika, or curry powder can all be used to create unique and delicious flavored mayos.
The Conclusion: A Triumph of Science and Soybeans
So, after this deep and oily investigation, how is vegan mayo made?
My conclusion is that it is a triumph of food science, a testament to the hidden power of plants. It is made by understanding the fundamental principles of emulsion and finding clever, plant-based ingredients that can step in and do the hard work of forcing oil and water to become friends.
Whether you use the lecithin in soy milk, the proteins in aquafaba, or the creamy fat of cashews, the result is the same: a delicious, versatile, and cruelty-free sauce that defies the laws of physics. It's a reminder that with a little bit of knowledge and a good blender, you can perform small, everyday miracles right in your own kitchen. You are a culinary alchemist. ✨
Now that you have a perfect, creamy, homemade mayo, what are you going to put it on? A sad, bland, store-bought veggie burger? I don't think so. Check out my guide to making the perfect base for your new sauce: [“Why Does My Tofu Always Taste Like Cardboard?”].
Sources
McGee, H. (2004). On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. Scribner. (The definitive scientific guide to culinary processes, including emulsions).
Serious Eats. The Science of Mayonnaise. https://www.seriouseats.com/the-science-of-mayonnaise-emulsions-food-lab
Healthline. What Is an Emulsion? Plus, 9 Emulsion Examples. https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/emulsion
The Vegan Society. Sauces and Dressings. (Provides an overview of vegan alternatives).
Minimalist Baker. Easy Vegan Mayo. (A popular and reliable recipe demonstrating the soy milk method).
It Doesn't Taste Like Chicken. The Best Vegan Mayonnaise (Aquafaba Mayo). (A popular and reliable recipe demonstrating the aquafaba method).
The Kitchn. I Tried 4 Methods for Making Vegan Mayonnaise and the Winner Was Unbelievably Creamy. (A comparative test of different methods).
National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI). Soy Lecithin. (For the science of the emulsifying agent in soy).
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